Beard

How to Grow a Beard Others Will Envy (Part Two)

BEARD HAIR PROBLEMS & THEIR SOLUTIONS

FIRST THINGS FIRST, YOU HAVE TO START GROWING

It sounds simple enough—to have a beard you must first grow a beard. The obvious factor here is you have to put the razor away.

Once you stop shaving and the stubble starts to appear, you can best see the pattern of growth. Mapping your facial hair growth is an important step in achieving a close and pain-free shave. It can also be important when growing a beard.

MAPPING YOUR BEARD HAIR GROWTH

Mapping your beard growth is obviously not crucial to growing an awesome beard, but it can help you decide how to best manage and style your beard.

To map your facial hair growth patterns, you should take a selfie that focuses on the beard after two or three days of not shaving. This photo will serve as your template to mapping the direction of your beard hair. Zooming in on this photo can also show you where any bald spots and gray hairs appear.

At our Mapping Beard Hair Growth Patterns page you can learn all about mapping growth. We also have an interactive map for you so that you can record your growth patterns.

Since you will be or have just begun sprouting your chin hairs, you have some time to go before you need to worry about how to trim and style your beard. Keep in mind, though, that with beards growing in popularity there has been more attention drawn to how a man keeps his beard.

In the next article to be posted as part of this series, How to Grow a Beard Others Will Envy (Part Three): What Beard Style is Right For You? we will talk you through choosing the right beard style for your face shape. Make sure to visit this article so you can have a beard that makes you look your absolute best.

BALDING & ITS RELATIONSHIP WITH BEARDS

Although there is no such thing as a bald beard (since we would just call that an inability to grow a beard), there are still issues related to a balding head that can affect beard growth, as well.

You may have noticed that there are many bald men running around out in the world who have full, dense beards. It is a good look, no doubt (just think of Bruce Willis), but the reason why bald men seem to have such noteworthy beards may be due to more than just a grooming decision. In fact, the mere fact they are bald can have something to do with their ability to grow that beautiful bushy beard.

THE DREADED WORDS NO MAN WANTS TO HEAR…

Perhaps you are one of the many man out there who has begun or is currently undergoing a change in appearance. If you look in the mirror and see that your hairline has started to recede or you see a shiny bald spot starting to form on the top of your head, or perhaps you just do not seem to have as much hair to run your fingers through, you may be experiencing… (drum roll, please)… MALE PATTERN BALDNESS!

Now before you call your mom to blame her for ruining your good looks, hear us out. There are several reasons your hair could be undergoing a slight or drastic change.

So let us walk through some hair loss issues together before we go further into how scalp hair loss is related to beard growth.

MALE PATTERN BALDNESS

To determine if your change in scalp hair growth is in fact male pattern baldness (also known as androgenic alopecia), you will first want to identify that you have indeed lost hair.

To determine whether signs of hair loss from your scalp is related to male pattern baldness (“MPB”) or something else, you will first want to take a couple of selfies over a period of two to three months, making sure they are under the SAME LIGHTING and under the same conditions.

To simply see hair falling out in the shower or on your pillow does not readily indicate that baldness is headed your way. Nor does thin-looking hair after certain events, like swimming or showering, mean that you are going bald. It is also important to remember that a widows peak is not the same as a receding hairline.

To determine whether your hair issues are in fact a balding issue, there are certain early warning signs you can look for: receding hairline, thinning hair and bald spots.

receding hairline is usually noticeable by the V-shaped pattern that forms over the temples on each side of the head. A widows peak is also V-shaped, but rather than being formed on the sides of the head it is formed toward the center of the forehead. Thus, a receding hairline can be attributed more toward an M shape than a V, given the location on the head.

Thinning hair on a man typically starts on top of the head (rather than the crown), but certain lighting can affect how we see this. Direct light coming from an overhead location can usually give us a hair-thinning appearance in photographs, so please keep this in mind when checking your selfie for signs of balding.

Furthermore, the common belief that a bald maternal relative means certain baldness for you is disputable by many scientists¹. So although a bald uncle or grandfather on your mom’s side of the family can mean it will also be in your future, it is not a guarantee.

Now for some relieving news, if you will: nearly half of all men will experience some form of hair loss due to MPB at some point after reaching the age of 50, and many will have started to lose their hair before that age².

Just because it is common does not make it easier, but know that there are more people in your corner than you may think when/if that day comes along.

In fact, 40% of men experience noticeable hair loss by the age of 35, and by age 60 the number of men who have lost hair jumps to 85%².

SO WHAT CAUSES MPB?

There are several reasons why a man may begin to lose the hair on his head: a medical condition, like cancer or problems with the thyroid, taking a new medication, hormonal changes, and genetics. Other factors, like stress and age, can also have an effect on your hair growth. Finally, a bacteria, yeast or fungus can be the catalyst to loss.

This is another reason why taking selfies of your hair loss over a period of months can be beneficial. Being able to take these photos to your doctor could help him/her properly diagnose the exact cause of hair loss or eliminate other factors, like a fungus.

The exact cause of MPB remains a mystery (although this article published by Science Daily points to gravity as the culprit).

There is one prominent theory that has been the basis for a lot of popular hair loss treatments, which is that genetics and hormones can both lead to hair loss.

Androgens, which include testosterone and dihydrotestosterone (“DHT”), are responsible for hair growth as well as hair loss. DHT is also a key player in one reason many scientists give for MPB.

Like we learned in the first part of this series, How to Grow a Beard Others Will Envy (Part One): Skin Issues During Beard Growth & Their Solutions, dandruff (including beard-druff) is essentially boiled down to an individual’s sensitivity to oleic acid. Much like the cause of dandruff, MPB also boils down to whether a person has a sensitivity to DHT.

If you are one of the millions of men out there with a sensitivity to DHT, then your hair follicle is going to respond to a presence of DHT.

According to research, even the slightest amount of DHT is enough to have drastic appearance-changing affect for some people².

When a person is genetically predisposed to a DHT sensitivity, hair loss on the head is a result of the hair follicle shrinking in size as a response to this sensitivity. The reduction in the size of the follicle causes hair to become more vellus or fine, affecting the stages of hair growth until one day the hair from that follicle stops growing altogether³.

SO WHAT DOES MPB HAVE TO DO WITH BEARDS?

So now that we are schooled on MPB, you may be asking what all of this has to do with your beard?

Well, some scientists believe that simply growing a beard can actually accelerate or even cause baldness! The study of this scientific theory is the topic of an article written by Serious Science and published by Discover Magazine: Going bald? According to these scientists, you can blame your beard.

In this article it is said that bearded men lose their head hair as a thermoregulatory response to the heat beards add to the body.

The scientists who conducted this study backed their theory with evidence from their controlled study, which showed sweat evaporation from the scalps of bearded men to be two and three times more than that of their non-bald, clean-shaven counterparts.

So balding is the fault of a beard? Maybe…but maybe not. Something to ponder, nevertheless.

On a more factual note, the MPB-causing hormone DHT that we discussed above is also a key player in facial hair growth.

According to this article written by several doctors who were looking at the effects of DHT on beard growth, DHT does in fact affect how your beard will grow in, as well.

Remember the awkward and sometimes embarrassing transition from boyhood into manhood? Remember the voice pitch changes, the growth in new areas, like your shoulders (what were you thinking?), and the hairs that began to sprout, well, all over? That was all because of androgens.

Androgens increase during puberty, causing secondary sexual characteristics in males, which includes the ability to grow a beard.

With this increase in androgen levels, an adolescent boy finally sees what facial hair he will have as a man. Some guys are more hairy than others, and we will tell you why.

The reason for DHT causing hair growth in puberty but later in one’s life becoming a cause of hair loss is thought to be the result of a “delayed-action gene that ‘switches on’ in adulthood and changes the response of the hair follicles to DHT”².

PATCHY BEARD GROWTH

Also according to our research, DHT is responsible for growth of hair on the body, including the face, but for some yet to be discovered reason, DHT has the opposite effect on the growth of hair from the scalp.

An enzyme in the body, 5-alpha-reductase (“5-AR”), is responsible for converting testosterone into DHT. If a person’s 5-AR levels increase, then the production levels of DHT will also increase, meaning more hair loss for many men.

The higher production levels of DHT by some men will not only increase beard-growing ability but will cause, in 50% of these men, a susceptibility to a bald head due to their genetically predisposed sensitivity to DHT. The result is a large group of bald men who can grow fuller, lusher beards than men who have a full head of hair.

So what does this mean for the rest of the men (the other 50% of the population) who do not have a sensitivity to DHT?

Well, for starters, these men are a lot less likely to experience MPB. The testosterone levels in these men will be one key factor in how full their beards will be, as well as how much of the face the beard will cover.

Phew! So now that we finally reached this conclusion, you will want to read on to see some suggested solutions to patchy beard growth.

If you have a full head of hair but find yourself getting jealous whenever you see a bald man walk by with a full, thick beard, then look to Solution 1 below. If you have a sparse beard that only covers a portion of your face and just cannot live without more beard, you will want to see Solution 2. Finally, if you are a curious kind of fellow and want to know how to lengthen your beard overnight, see Solution 3.

SOLUTION 1: INCREASE TESTOSTERONE LEVELS

As with most medical issues today, you can turn to supplements and anabolic steroids to give you the testosterone boost you are looking for. However, these things are not natural and have some pretty awful side effects, like risk of heart attack and even death.

So some natural alternatives would seem to be a better choice. The best way to boost testosterone production in the body is by exercising more. Running, lifting weights and aerobic training are all great ways to boost testosterone.

Whether you go the synthetic or natural route in an attempt to raise your testosterone levels, there is something you need to keep in mind:

An increase in testosterone within the body does not immediately mean that your beard will grow fuller and thicker. This is because the 5-AR enzyme must convert the testosterone into DHT for it to have an effect on your beard growth, and you will have no control over whether it will be converted into DHT or not.

SOLUTION 2: BEARD HAIR TRANSPLANT

Thanks to the many accomplishments of science and the ability to transplant hairs from one part of the body to another, you no longer have to accept a patchy or missing beard as your lasting appearance.

In fact, you do not have to limit yourself to just beard transplants, you can also get your brows and sideburns done, too!

In 2018, we found a hair transplant center in San Antonio, Texas that stated online that the cost of a beard transplant is upwards of $2500. The procedure will more than likely take you away from work for a day or few, but is a more definite approach than other solutions to making certain that you get more beard.

SOLUTION 3: BEARD HAIR EXTENSIONS

Real beard hair donated or sold by companies for addition to your beard? Well, it appears that Beardbrand, another beard care company, pulled an April Fool’s prank that led customers to believe they could actually purchase extensions through their site.

Although it was a prank, it still is not an impossible endeavour for those that feel brave enough to undergo such a challenge.

Many women and men already look to hair extensions to lengthen their hair and to make it fuller. The methods of achieving this are by clipping on a band of hair by anchoring the strip somewhere hidden within the natural hair, or by braiding new hairs in a little at a time (microbraiding).

So, if you are lacking length and know a fellow willing to give up his beard hairs to you, you may find it worth a try.

On the other end of the spectrum, if you have long, luscious beard locks that you are willing to part with, you could be someone’s beard donor and may even find yourself making some beardy-locks dough.

SOLUTION 4: USE PRODUCTS ON YOUR BEARD THAT CAN HELP STIMULATE GROWTH

There are some nutrients found in many beard care products on the market today that can potentially assist you in growing a fuller, thicker and longer beard.

The nutrients to look for in beard products to best assist you in increasing growth and stimulating hair follicles are Vitamins A, C and E, as well as Omega-3 fatty acids. Nutrients like beta-carotene, zinc and protein are also helpful in achieving a fuller, thicker beard when they are added to your diet.

Tubb Starr beard oils, butters, balms, waxes and other premium products all contain Vitamins A, C, E and Omega-3 fatty acids.

To better understand how certain nutrients are beneficial to beards, please visit our post, How to Grow a Beard Others Will Envy (Part Eight): Understanding the Ingredients in Your Beard & Mustache Products.

SOLUTION 5: MASSAGE & EXFOLIATE THE AREA

Science shows massage as a possible solution to slow-growing or balding areas of hair. Although it is not a guaranteed solution, who doesn’t enjoy a little massage? You could even use your patchy beard as an excuse to get that special someone to put their fingers all up in your beard.

Exfoliation is also not a guaranteed solution, but it has its benefits nevertheless. Exfoliating the skin under the beard, as well as the face, not only helps clear clogged pores but it can help remove excess sebum and a build up of product from the skin and hair.

Exfoliating while giving your face a massage is the best of both worlds with this possible solution to patchy beard growth. Despite it not being a sure-fire way to increase hair growth, it will have its benefit of increasing blood flow to the hair follicles. Increased blood circulation will help your follicles stay healthy and nourished. There is no harm in that!

The reason that massage and exfoliation has been offered as a possible solution is because there is belief that increased blood flow to hair follicles may stimulate growth.

It is true that follicles need this blood circulation to stay nourished, and healthy hair follicles would mean healthier hair.

So if you feel hopeless, trying your hand at a little massage and exfoliation is worth a shot.

HAIR KNOTTING & SPLIT-ENDS

Hair knotting is more common in our long-bearded mates than those with a shorter beard, but it is an annoyance that can cause some ugly problems for anyone.

Knotting or tangled hair is the result of a damaged hair cuticle. The cuticle is what we see when we look at hair since it is the outermost layer, and it is what we control to give our hair softness, shine and flexibility.

Think of each one of your beard hairs as a house. (Yes, we said HOUSE.) The medulla is the central core of a hair consisting of large cells and air spaces, like your furniture in an air-conditioned room. The cortex is a bulky layer around the medulla made up of several layers of flattened cells, like the drywall, siding and brick structure that keeps things inside your house. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair made of keratin and formed from a single layer of cells overlapping one another, like shingles on a roof.

The overlapping cells are scaly and rough in texture and in some instances, like in curly hair, these cells raise up. When the shingles of our house are sticking up, hairs can become entangled and knots can form.

The rough texture of the cuticle also makes it more susceptible to abrasion. Any one of the causes of damage below can eventually wear down a cuticle layer, allowing the keratin fibrils in the cortex and medulla to frizz, creating split-ends².

Some causes for splitting and fraying of hair are excessive blow-drying; exposure to extreme temperatures; pulling or playing with hair; improper detangling; improper combing and  brushing (like when it is wet or by using combs/brushes made of synthetic materials); using inferior or harsh products (like those containing sodium laureth sulfate); exposing hair to chemicals (like dyes); and using an excess of product.

The cuticle is the gateway to letting moisture in and keeping chemicals and other harmful things out.

To make hair shiny, smooth, flexible and soft we then want to make sure that the scaly cells of the cuticle are smoothed over and sealed so moisture is being retained longer and there is less damage to hair from snags and abrasion.

SOLUTION 1: USE A DETANGLER

When using a detangler on your beard you should look to stay with natural ingredients, since synthetics (e.g., silicones, like dimethicone and cyclomethicone) can be irritating to facial skin.

Also, given the proximity of facial hair to your mouth, you would not want to worry about chemicals somehow making their way into your body.

The natural ingredients that you do want to look for in products or when concocting your own DIY hair detangler are those that are especially conditioning to hair.

Tubb Starr’s Beard Cologne & Detangler helps detangle hair by providing enough moisture and slip so that damage to the cuticle can be prevented when combing or brushing.

The Macadamia Nut included in this formula is full of nutrients that form a protective layer on the shaft of the hair, smoothing the cuticle and also providing the hair with amazing sun protection.

SOLUTION 2: BOAR HAIR BRUSHES

Combs and brushes made of synthetic materials can snag hair, causing damage. Boar hair brushes help to evenly distribute the natural oils found on your skin and can coat the beard hair with these beneficial oils. This helps hair to stay evenly moisturized, protecting the cuticle and reducing the number of split-ends.

Using a boar hair brush rather than a regular hair comb can also help unclog pores blocked with excess sebum, clearing skin and preventing beard-druff.

DRY, BRITTLE HAIR

Dry, brittle hair is caused by a lack of moisture at the root of the hair or the inability of the shaft of the hair to retain moisture.

Moisture is locked in or retained in a strand of hair when the cuticle is smooth. To be smooth, the scaly layers of the cuticle must not be activated to open (raise up).

When exposed to chemicals or other substances  the cuticle’s shingles will detach and stick up. This allows moisture to escape and exposes the medulla and cortex to whatever chemicals or other substances come in contact with the hair.

That is why it is important to know what ingredients are in the products that you use on your beard and face, as well as how those ingredients will affect you.

SOLUTION: LOOK FOR BEARD PRODUCTS THAT ARE MOISTURIZING, NOURISHING & CONDITIONING

There are many vegetable oils that can be applied to beards that can help smooth the cuticle layer of hair. Olive oil and coconut oil are two common cooking oils that most people have in their homes that can be applied to dry, brittle hair. If you choose to do this, be sure to use cold-pressed, virgin and organic oils.

At Tubb Starr we include Kukui Nut Oil in our Platinum and Jade Label products because of its ability to penetrate the hair shaft, providing plenty of moisture and shine.

The Argan Oil included in our Gold and Jade Label products, as well as our Uber-Moisturizing Beard Wash with Honey & Aloe, softens, moisturizes, nourishes, protects and controls frizz.

Using products that contain butters, like shea nut, cocoa, mango and kokum butters, are also especially nourishing and moisturizing to beards.

The fatty acid content of these butters, like those containing Omega-3, can help lock moisture into hair with its emollient, healing and sun-protecting properties.

GRAYING OR WHITE BEARD

The pigment of one’s hair is determined by inherited genes. Whether you have red, brown, black or blonde hair, the color is all produced the same way by our bodies.

Melanin is produced by melanocytes located under the skin and near the bottom of the hair follicle.

There are several shades of melanin produced: yellow, rust, brown and black. It is the proportion of these different colors of melanin that ultimately determine your hair color.

Red-haired people have an addition of pheomelanin in the melanocytes that color their hair various shades of red.

Many men who have not a single red hair on their head are shocked when they start to grow a beard and find that their beard is slightly or predominantly red in color. The reason for this is thought to be the result of a mutation on the MC1R gene found on chromosome 16. When both parents pass this mutated gene on to their offspring, their child comes out a true redhead. When only one parent passes on the mutated gene, then red hairs appear elsewhere, like in the beard.

One day in every person’s life, the melanocytes will be given a stop order notice to halt production of melanin.

New scientific research has shown that this lack of melanin can be caused by a buildup of hydrogen peroxide at the production site, but the old theory is that your genetic makeup tells the melanocytes when to stop.

Although, whatever the cause, there are a few things you can do to avoid going white, gray or silver.

Beards also will become white with the production halt of melanin New scientific research has shown that this lack of melanin can be caused by a buildup of hydrogen peroxide at the production site

SOLUTION 1: COLORING YOUR BEARD HAIR

Since beards also will become white with the production halt of melanin, you can choose to dye your beard hair just as you can your head hair.

When coloring your beard, the cuticle is again a key player. The ammonia in permanent dyes activate or raise the cells of the cuticle, allowing for the dye’s pigment to penetrate the entire shaft of the hair.

To close the cuticle and seal the color and moisture in requires a deep-conditioning agent. That is why many hair dye kits include a special conditioner to use after rinsing the excess dye from your hair.

There are several hair dye companies that offer dyes made specifically for beards. These are good options, but using one that has a lot of natural oils included in the formula will be the best at helping you maintain a healthy, smooth cuticle.

When applying the dye to your beard, you will want to use the brush included with the dye or use your fingers to evenly coat the hair, getting as close to the skin as possible and brushing/working it through in a downward motion.

To achieve a less uniformly-colored or shoe-polished appearance when dying your beard, you can opt to work with semi-permanent and demi-permanent dyes, but the color will not last as long and are not as available as permanent dyes.

To create a more natural and not shoe-polished look when coloring with a permanent hair dye, you can let it sit only 5 to 10 minutes after application before rinsing it from your hair. This “tints” the white hairs so they are less shocking and noticeable. Also, trapping the heat that naturally escapes from the dyed hair by wrapping the beard in an old towel or with a plastic shopping bag can help the dye penetrate deeper into the hair.

It is important to keep in mind that dying gray and white hair is more difficult than coloring hair that still has its pigment. The reason for this is that hair loses some of the elasticity that the melanin provided.

So try as you might, the hair color may not last as long or cover as fully as you desire.

Finally, chemically-treated, colored hair often resembles damaged hairs in that the cuticle’s surface is rough and some of the cells have worn away. Using conditioners rich in Omega-3 fatty acid and daily application of a beard oil should help smooth the cuticle.

SOLUTION 2: USE PRODUCTS WITH A STRONGER HOLD

When beard hair turns white or gray, the texture of the hair also changes. The hairs become straighter and tend to be more wiry and hard to control.

Using a beard or mustache wax to control these hairs is often better than using products with a lighter strength.

Thus, you will want to find products that contain a wax or resin for the needed styling strength.

INGROWN HAIR

Ingrown hairs are painful and can sometimes leave unappealing red, pus-filled bumps on the skin. A hair is ingrown when the tip of the hair reenters the skin, making a loop.

Another way a hair can become ingrown is when a hair follicle becomes clogged with dead skin cells or excess sebum (skin oils) which forces the hair to grow sideways underneath the epidermis.

The reentry point of the ingrown hair is often sore and irritated. A red bump can form with pus inside, resembling a pimple.

Because beard hair is often more coarse than head hair, and white beard hair is wiry, ingrown hairs are not uncommon in beard growers.

SOLUTION: CLEANSE & EXFOLIATE

Keeping skin clean where facial hair grows is very important in preventing a hair follicle from getting clogged.

Dirt, grime, excess skin oil and product can be easily removed with soap and water. Yet, to ensure you are keeping the hair follicles free of dead skin cells and excess sebum requires a cleanser with a little exfoliating power.

Additionally, exfoliating the beard area will also help gently lift any hairs that are ingrown.

To make an at-home exfoliating facial cleanser that can be used on and around your beard, mix one tablespoon of baking soda with one tablespoon of melted coconut oil or with one tablespoon of warm water. Then, using your fingertips, apply the paste to your face in circular motions. This should help remove dead skin cells and gently lift ingrown hairs.

Of course, any red bumps or sores on the face that appear to be infected should be looked at by a doctor.

KNOWING IS HALF THE BATTLE

Now you know ALL about beard hair and how it grows and what to do to keep it healthy, shiny, soft and looking its best. Go forth and beard on with confidence!

Also, be sure to check back with us later in the week for our next post that will talk about styling and trimming your beard and mustache.


A FULL LIST OF POSTS TO BE PUBLISHED AS A PART OF THIS TEN-PART SERIES:
  1. Skin Issues During Beard Growth & Their Solutions (this post)
  2. Beard Hair Problems & Their Solutions (this post)
  3. What Beard Style is Right for You? (posted July 1, 2018)
  4. How to Trim & Groom Your Mustache & Beard During All Stages of Growth (posted August 13, 2018)
  5. How to Cleanse Your Beard (posted September 25, 2018)
  6. A Breakdown of Beard Products & How to Select the Right Ones for You (post date: pending)
  7. Understanding the Ingredients in Beard & Mustache Products (post date: pending)
  8. A Grooming Routine for the Day-to-Day & Specific Events in Your Life (post date: pending)
  9. Living the Healthy Beard Lifestyle (post date: pending)
  10. How to Make Your Beard Work for You (post date: pending)

¹ Article reviewed by Levy, Brendan, MD. The Early Signs of Balding and How to Stop Them. ForHims.

² Marieb, Elaine N. & Hoehn, Katja. Human Anatomy & Physiology, Tenth Edition. Pearson. 2016.

³ Case-Lo, Christine; reviewed by Wilson, Debra Rose, PhD, MSN, RN, IBCLC, AHN-BC, CHT. Hair Loss and Testosterone. HealthLine. October 3, 2016.


This article and the blog where it is published are for entertainment and informational purposes only. The views and opinions in this article are the views of the author and do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of Tubb Starr or its affiliates. The facts included, referenced and cited in this article are true to the best of our knowledge; however, there may be omissions, mistakes and/or errors. Any inclusion in this article of advice, whether it be from a physician, medical practicioner or professional, licensed or not, is intended for informational purposes only and to induce conversation. It is not intended, nor shall it be used or relied upon, as a substitute for professional advice, diagnosis or treatment. Any reliance upon views, opinions, facts and/or advice given in this article is done so at the risk of the reader.

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