How to Grow a Beard Others Will Envy (Part One)

SKIN ISSUES DURING BEARD GROWTH & THEIR SOLUTIONS

If you have never tried to grow a real beard (which does not include that 5 o’clock shadow you get after a long day out) then there are a few skin issues you should know may arise:

• EVER HEARD OF DANDRUFF?
• SO WHAT IS BEARD-DRUFF?
• Who Will Experience Beard-druff?
• Could it Be Something Other Than Beard-druff?
• HOW TO PREVENT BEARD-DRUFF
• Solution 1: Cleanse Properly & Regularly
• Solution 2: Use Products Made Specifically for Beards
• DRY SKIN:
• Solution: Moisturize
• BEARD ITCH IS A BITCH:
• Solution: Use pH-Balanced Products
• BLEMISHES:
• Solution 1: Diet
• Solution 2: Cleanse Properly & Regularly
• Solution 3: Prevent Sebum Buildup

Never you fear, my beard-minded fellow! Those brave men that have bearded before you (and those that love them) have tackled these issues for you so that you can use proper care in preventing them altogether.

So let’s get going…

EVER HEARD OF DANDRUFF?

For those of us old enough to remember the scene in John Hughes’s “The Breakfast Club” when Ally Sheedy (playing outcast Allison) shakes the dandruff out of her hair to add “snow” to her artwork, we know how a person with dandruff is portrayed.

However, unlike the myths of the past, dandruff is not a result of poor hygiene. More surprisingly to some, neither is it a result of dry skin. Rather, dry skin can be the result of dandruff.

In the case of mistaking dandruff to be the result of a dry scalp, many then rely on repeated shampooing to eliminate the problem, often with a formulated product.

The reality is that dryness is not the cause of dandruff and repeated washings only worsen the problem.

SO WHAT IS BEARD-DRUFF?

According to a major leader in hair care, dandruff is actually caused by a microbe known as Malassezia globosa which is a yeast/fungus.

This dirty scoundrel of a microbe loves to feed on fats and oils, and he does not discriminate as to where he is getting his next meal. So dry, itchy skin where facial hair is sprouting may actually be the result of these microbes eating away at the natural oils produced by our skin.

The breakdown of healthy oils from underneath beard hair results in the linoleic acid content of the sebum (our skin’s natural oil) being near non-existent and oleic acid being what is left behind. 

Too much oleic acid on the skin is the cause of even more issues, such as dry skin, redness, itch, irritation, acne and even hair loss.

WHO WILL EXPERIENCE BEARD-DRUFF?

This is where genetics comes into play. In determining who will develop beard-druff it is more common than you may think.

According to our research, nearly 50% of the population has a skin sensitivity to oleic acid.

Thus, when that dirty little microbe feasts on your linoleic acid and leaves you with a heaping amount of only oleic acid, you have a 1 in 2 chance that you will develop beard-druff.

COULD IT BE SOMETHING OTHER THAN BEARD-DRUFF?

The symptoms of beard-druff are red, irritated skin and patches of dead skin cells that flake off. Now that you are aware of what beard-druff is and how it is caused, you can identify this problem if you are the unlucky one out of every two people.

If you notice more than just dry skin and flaking, like crusty yellow patches or hair loss, then you may be experiencing something more serious than beard-druff. It could be seborrheic dermatitis.

The first thing you should do if you find yourself itching around your beard is to treat the area for beard-druff as recommended below. If this does not help and the irritation continues or you see scaly patches forming on your skin, then you should contact a dermatologist to check if it is something more serious.

HOW TO PREVENT BEARD-DRUFF

Not all beard growers will be afflicted with beard-druff, but either way it is important to know what causes it and how to treat your beard and the skin underneath. There are a couple of important steps you should already be taking to maintaining healthy skin and beard hair.

SOLUTION 1: CLEANSE PROPERLY & REGULARLY

To prevent fungus and other bacteria from growing on your skin, it is of course important to cleanse regularly. Many beard-obsessed guys out there will tell you to not wash your beard every day. They are not wrong.

Cleansing too often with the WRONG cleanser can strip your beard hair of healthy, natural and necessary oils. However, washing your beard with the RIGHT kind of cleanser is effective at removing dirt and bacteria, as well as preventing fungal infections.

It is especially important to cleanse our face since it is one area that is always exposed to outside elements.

Additionally, eating three plus meals a day creates an environment near our mouth that is even more susceptible to dirt, bacteria, etc. with food particles being left behind.

Thus, asking a man to not wash his beard and mustache every day is like begging to let all the bad guys set up house so you can watch them take your face and beard into the ugly, nasty, scary zone. Imagine a construction worker not washing his beard after a long, hot day of work… Need we say more?

Thankfully, Tubb Starr has a more reasonable solution to helping prevent beard-druff but also to cleansing your beard and mustache without the worry. Tubb Starr’s Uber-Moisturizing Beard Wash with Honey & Aloe is a beard wash that has been formulated for every-day use.

Unlike a shampoo, which is designed to be used on the scalp and the hair that grows thereon, a beard wash does not contain ingredients that will strip your beard hair of its natural oils. Better yet, our beard wash never leaves your beard feeling dry and crunchy.

SOLUTION 2: USE PRODUCTS MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR BEARDS

With the beard gaining popularity, you can now purchase specialized products that will aid you in growing a beautiful, healthy and comfortable beard.

These products are often formulated to combat the skin issues many experience during beard growth, as well.

With the popularity of beards growing there has also been exponential growth in beard products hitting the market. In our previous post, “The Tubb Starr Difference” we brought light to how some beard products on the market today are inferior to others, and how some can actually do more harm than good.

When treating beard-druff and its symptoms of dry, itchy, red and irritated skin, you want to be replacing what is missing, the linoleic acid that those dirty Malassezia microbes ate away. Thus, you want to look for products that have a higher linoleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid) content.

Linoleic acid, also known to many as Omega-9 fatty acid is a building block of many common vegetable oils.

The best oils to use when replacing linoleic acid on your skin due to a presence of Malassezia are Hemp Seed, Safflower, Camellia Seed, Grapeseed, Chia Seed, Sunflower, Flax Seed, Poppyseed and Wheat Germ.

To learn more about the fatty acid content in beard products and how it affects your beard and skin, please see the Tubb Starr article, “Getting to Know Your Fats” that will be published at a later date.

Additionally, boar hair brushes help to evenly distribute the natural oils found on your skin and can coat the beard hair with these beneficial oils. This helps prevent beard-druff by preventing a buildup of the skin’s natural oils.

Using a boar hair brush rather than a regular hair comb can help unclog pores blocked with excess sebum, clearing skin and preventing beard-druff.

DRY SKIN

If you have dry or sensitive skin without a beard, then be advised that you will want to have a plan in action on day one of your beard growth to waylay your pre-existing problem.

If you do not normally suffer from dry skin while clean-shaven, you can still develop irritating dryness.

In fact, it is the irritation and itchiness from dry skin that drives a lot of men to shave their new beard before reaching their goal length.

The good news is that this itch should subside within the first 30 days of growth. There are also a few things you can do to prevent and/or stop the itch.

SOLUTION: MOISTURIZE

Makes sense, right? When something that is dry is a problem, the obvious solution is to wet or lubricate the dry area.

However, for a man’s face covered in beard stubble, a mere splash of water will not do, nor will using a product that is too moisturizing (like petroleum jelly).

The goal is to find a moisturizing agent that provides proper hydration to the skin while not leaving you feeling or looking greasy.

There are a few natural ingredients you might have in your pantry or medicine cabinet already that can work for you, such as a vegetable oil or gel (like aloe vera).

You do not want to use any old vegetable oil on your skin, though.

So before you slather your cooking oils all over your face, check the label. If your oil is cold-pressed and virgin, then it is good to go. If it is organic, then even better.

The reason to use only cold-pressed, virgin and organic oils is because when an oil is altered for cooking it removes a lot of the essential nutrients you are wanting for your skin. To put an altered oil on your face would be pointless since it would just be oil…on your face.

THE BEARD ITCH IS A BITCH

Having an itchy anything is irritating and uncomfortable. It can put even the best-tempered people into a foul and unpleasant mood. So why let a desire to grow your beard turn into a nightmare?

As we know from the information above, beard-druff is one cause of beard itch. Any fungus, yeast or bacteria, not just the beard-druff causing Malassezia microbe, can result in dry, irritated skin.

That is why it is so important to know what you are putting in your beard and on your face but also how those ingredients will affect you.

Using products that are too alkaline (higher on the pH scale) can disrupt our skin’s delicate barrier of defense, which barrier is called the acid mantle.

The acid mantle on our face typically has a pH of 5.5. This is slightly acidic since the pH scale is neutral at 7, with 1 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. (Remember using litmus paper to test pH in your high school chemistry class?)

SOLUTION: USE pH-BALANCED PRODUCTS

The acid mantle pH of 5.5 is why products like shampoos, which are designed to be used on the scalp, and commercial products containing sodium laureth sulfate are not good for your beard hair or your skin¹.

The wrong ingredients on your skin can raise the pH level and over time, cause some major irritation and itchy issues.

Some pH neutral products are also not good for hair and skin despite claims made by many large bath and body corporations.

In fact, a slightly acidic formula can be the best thing to use. Since the acid mantle of our face typically reads at 5.5 on the pH scale, a cleanser and toner designed to be used on the face that also has a pH close to 5 (meaning it is slightly acidic) will be the best option for use on your beard and face.

That is why Tubb Starr’s Uber-Moisturizing Honey & Aloe Beard Wash is so great for your beard. The honey we use in our beard wash is not just any old honey that you can find on the shelves at your local grocery store. No, we have taken our product a step further by including Manuka Honey sourced from New Zealand in our premium beard wash.

This honey helps us to pH balance the wash. It also has microbial-fighting properties as well as many other benefits to the skin and hair.

Tubb Starr’s Hydrating & Cooling Beard & Face Tonic is a refreshing, cooling toner that is pH-balanced to meet the needs of your skin and beard. It will feel fantastic on your face (especially on hot summer days), and it will help moisturize. A toner is designed to help keep your skin clean and healthy and can be useful in replacing moisture after cleansing.

Apple Cider Vinegar (“ACV”) is naturally high in acetic acid and has a pH level that is very close to that of human hair. ACV has anti-viral, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a good treatment for skin plagued with acne.

Using ACV as a hair rinse is a popular way of making hair soft and shiny; however, you will want to use caution when rinsing with ACV immediately after an alkaline product.

There is enough difference in pH levels between a more alkaline product and ACV that use of these two things together will be shocking to the skin, causing irritation and dryness over time.

Tubb Starr’s beard wash includes ACV as an ingredient for its health benefits to beard hair and also to achieve the pH balance of our product.

You can read more about the ingredients in our beard wash and toner, including their benefits in Part Seven of this ten-part series, “How to Grow a Beard Others Will Envy”.

BLEMISHES

One beard veteran has admitted that, in a desperate attempt to fight the beard itch, he applied regular hand and body lotion to his beard and the skin underneath. What was the result? ACNE!

Although the itch subsided temporarily, the blemished skin that resulted was not worth the effort, and what he didn’t know was regular lotion is NOT good for hair, including beards.

As many of us learned during puberty, acne is caused by several factors, which includes hormonal changes, stress and a buildup of sebum. The same as beard-druff, a skin-residing bacterium known as Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) can also be a culprit.

To combat these factors, many things can help:

SOLUTION 1: DIET

When living a healthy lifestyle, including one suited to growing a phenomenal beard, your diet is always important.

To read more about how your diet can be tweaked to grow the healthiest beard possible, please see the ninth part of this series: “How to Grow a Beard Others Will Envy (Part Nine): Living the Healthy Beard Lifestyle”.

SOLUTION 2: CLEANSE PROPERLY & REGULARLY

Although not all bacteria found on the skin are responsible for causing breakouts, it is best to keep your face and beard clean.

As we discussed above in Solution 1: Cleanse Properly & Regularly to preventing beard-druff, using the right ingredients to cleanse regularly can help prevent acne, as well.

SOLUTION 3: PREVENT SEBUM BUILDUP

Although we produce sebum through our sebaceous glands naturally, there are several reasons why sebum production can become an issue. The most annoying of these issues can be acne.

When we produce sebum, the sebaceous glands located under our dermis layer push the sebum to the surface of the skin through our hair follicles. Sometimes the hair follicles will become clogged with sebum, yet the sebaceous glands will keep producing and pushing sebum up, causing a buildup.

A buildup of sebum in the hair follicles of the face combined with acne-causing bacteria can cause infection and swelling, which in turn can produce pimples or acne on the skin’s surface.

Tea Tree Oil has long been used as a home remedy for acne spot treatment. This oil is so great because it is a natural anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, antiseptic, antiviral and anti-infection treatment for the skin. It is also an ingredient in Tubb Starr’s beard wash that helps give it the earthy-mint scent that leaves your beard smelling good and feeling clean.

Additionally, Clove Oil has been used as an anti-fungal treatment on skin (which we include in our Yuletide Bath Soap). You never want to put undiluted essential oils directly onto skin without during your research. So rather than just dabbing clove oil on a pimple, which can be too potent for some skin types, you can look for products that include it as an ingredient.

There has been a burst of products in the world of cleansers, face masks, scrubs and even shampoos that contain Activated Charcoal. It is a natural way to pull the bad stuff out of pores and hair follicles to the surface of skin so it can be washed away.

The best ways to benefit from this powerhouse is to use it in a soap, wash/shampoo or face mask. Always use any new product with caution, and use care when using one that includes activated charcoal since it can be irritating and drying to those with sensitive skin.

Baking Soda is a well-known home remedy that is able to absorb oil well. Absorption of oil that is sitting on the face can be helpful for those who have oily skin.

It can also be a useful ingredient for beard hair when used in small amounts since it can help cleanse the hair without overdrying. When mixed with water to form a cleansing paste it can also act as a natural exfoliant, helping to remove dead skin cells from the face.

Clay Masks and other clay products can help release dirt and other grime from pores and can purify, detox and mattify the skin.

Clay can also be a good treatment for hair by drawing toxins out and helping to maintain its health. Look for clay masks designed to be used on the face and/or for hair that include kaolin clay or bentonite clay.

Using the Oil-Cleansing Method on the face as an alternative to traditional soap and water and even formulated cleansers containing salicylic acid (a popular acne treatment) can be beneficial to the face as well as the beard.

To get a full description of just how oil-cleansing works and its benefits, visit our blog post “The Oil-Cleansing Method” to be published in late November, 2018.

Finally, as mentioned above in how to prevent beard-druff, using a Boar Hair Brush will help to keep the skin clear of excess sebum and can help prevent acne formation.

KNOWING IS HALF THE BATTLE

Now you know about what skin issues you can experience when growing a beard and what to do about them.

Stay tuned for our next post which will address the issues that you can experience with beard hair, such as patchy growth, graying and dryness. We will also look at solutions to these beard hair problems, and later talk about trends with beards.

Yes, there are fashionable ways to take your beard above and beyond the norm, like bedazzling a beard and even getting beard extensions and transplants!

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A FULL LIST OF POSTS TO BE PUBLISHED AS A PART OF THIS TEN-PART SERIES:

1. Skin Issues During Beard Growth & Their Solutions (this post)
2. Beard Hair Problems & Their Solutions (posted June 26, 2018)
3. What Beard Style is Right for You? (posted July 1, 2018)
4. How to Trim & Groom Your Mustache & Beard During All Stages of Growth (posted August 13, 2018)
5. How to Cleanse Your Beard (posted September 25, 2018)
6. A Breakdown of Beard Products & How to Select the Right Ones for You (post date: pending)
7. Understanding the Ingredients in Beard & Mustache Products (post date: pending)
8. A Grooming Routine for the Day-to-Day & Specific Events in Your Life (post date: pending)
9. Living the Healthy Beard Lifestyle (post date: pending)
10. How to Make Your Beard Work for You (post date: pending)

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This article and the blog where it is published are for entertainment and informational purposes only. The views and opinions in this article are the views of the author and do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of Tubb Starr or its affiliates. The facts included, referenced and cited in this article are true to the best of our knowledge; however, there may be omissions, mistakes and/or errors. Any inclusion in this article of advice, whether it be from a physician, medical practicioner or professional, licensed or not, is intended for informational purposes only and to induce conversation. It is not intended, nor shall it be used or relied upon, as a substitute for professional advice, diagnosis or treatment. Any reliance upon views, opinions, facts and/or advice given in this article is done so at the risk of the reader.